Is Alcohol in Skincare Products Bad for Your Skin in the Long Term?
For the long term, definitely!
You must be wondering why companies use alcohol in the first place. Some people swear by alcohol-based products to reduce their breakouts, but the wrong kind of alcohol can quickly dehydrate skin, leading to irritation and dryness. This is particularly harmful for those with super-oily complexions, who may be desperate for a quick fix but will only make their skin worse in the long run.
There are good kinds of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, which are beneficial for the skin. However, for formulating effective skincare products, it's crucial to understand the different types of alcohols and their roles.
Understanding the Different Types of Alcohols
When discussing alcohol in skincare, the most common "alcohol" that causes concern is SD Alcohol or Ethanol. However, there are many other derivatives of alcohol that are widely used and beneficial for the product's performance. For instance, fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol are emollients used for their moisturizing properties. Penetration enhancers such as butylene glycol or pentylene glycol increase the penetration and absorption of products, including ethanol.
Where Does Alcohol Appear in the Ingredients List?
It's common to think that a skincare product is merely the sum of its ingredients, but formulating cosmetics is a delicate process. Some ingredients are added for benefits to the skin, but also to stabilize, enhance penetration, form texture, and improve slip. If an alcohol is listed lower than the fifth ingredient, it is often in a negligible amount, making it unlikely to cause "free radical damage" or dehydrate the skin. Its primary purpose is generally to stabilize other ingredients or act as an adjuster.
Is Ethanol Actually Harmful to the Skin?
Yes, ethanol can be harmful, but only in high amounts. Rubbing alcohol/ethanol acts as an astringent and has dehydrating properties. Applying high amounts of ethanol to your face is not healthy since your skin needs its normal bacterial flora for a healthy balance. However, many of the fears associated with alcohol in skincare are not relevant to topical use. For instance, a report on alcohol oxidative stress and free radical damage [1] is often cited, but it discusses oral consumption, not topical application. Another report [2] is relevant, but cell cultures cannot accurately simulate the complex makeup of the lipid barriers of intact skin.
Functions of Alcohol in Skincare
The use of alcohol in skincare is not just about dehydrating the skin. It serves multiple functions, including astringency, solvation, antifoaming, viscosity reduction, penetration enhancement, and antimicrobial properties. Many beneficial ingredients are more soluble in alcohol and cannot be carried by water or silicones. By reducing viscosity and enhancing penetration, alcohols help deliver essential ingredients to the skin more effectively. The lesser of two evils for the sake of delivering these essential ingredients, alcohols play an important role in formulating effective skincare products.
[1] Alcohol Oxidative Stress and Free Radical Damage
[2] [Report on Topical Application of Alcohol in Cosmetics]
[3] Alcohol Denat. Cosmetics Info