The Manners and Makeup of Victorian Women: A Century of Subtlety and Discretion

The Victorian era, marked by its strict social norms and rigid class structures, also witnessed a complex and often misunderstood approach to beauty and femininity. Makeup, in particular, was a subject of great controversy and secrecy, with stringent rules governing its usage.

Beauty and Morality

During the Victorian era, women were predominantly restricted from directly using makeup. The societal expectation was that women should appear naturally beautiful without the aid of cosmetics. This was driven by the moral beliefs of the time, which viewed heavy makeup as a sign of impropriety and immorality. However, there were subtle ways in which women could enhance their appearance without crossing the social line.

For example, young girls were taught that subtle redness on their cheeks added to their allure. This was often achieved by biting or smacking their cheeks, a practice that was widely accepted as a natural way to create an appealing blush. Biting the lips was also a common technique to create a rosy and appealing look. However, the mere suggestion that makeup might be used to achieve this natural look was highly embarrassing and could tarnish one's reputation.

Subtle Use of Makeup

Even with strict social constraints, there were instances where makeup was used discreetly, albeit not for general aesthetic purposes. Queen Victoria herself, along with her ladies-in-waiting and other aristocratic women, employed a form of makeup. This was typically reserved for private gatherings and social events where it was less likely to draw public scrutiny.

Much of the makeup used by women during this period was limited to face powder, which became permissible for respectable women after 1871. The use of face powder was seen as a conservative and acceptable practice, as it did not alter the natural appearance of the face. On the other hand, more overt forms of makeup like rouge and lipstick were typically associated with prostitutes and actresses, both of whom were considered to be outside of respectable society.

Rouge, in particular, was seen as a dangerous and inappropriate form of makeup. By the 1880s, however, it became more widely accepted in certain contexts, though it was still considered bold and unbecoming of a lady in public.

The Controversial Spanish Papers

A particularly intriguing aspect of Victorian era makeup was the use of 'Spanish papers,' which were essentially a form of rouge. These papers were developed to provide women with a natural-looking rosy complexion. However, there is some confusion about when and how they were used, with conflicting reports on their application.

Some sources indicate that Spanish papers were used as early as the 1870s, but they were initially seen as too bold and were considered dangerous. By the 1880s, their use became more acceptable, but there is disagreement about whether they were used on the cheeks or the eyes. One hypothesis is that by 1889, Spanish papers might have been applied to the eyes, though this practice would undoubtedly have been secretive and infrequent.

The Role of Makeup in Society

Despite the societal restrictions, there was a covert acceptance of makeup usage among certain sections of society. The middle class, in particular, found ways to incorporate subtle cosmetic enhancements into their beauty regimens. By the turn of the century, in 1900, mascara was becoming acceptable for use by middle-class women, a year before Queen Victoria's death.

Queen Victoria herself, a symbol of the era, was known to have used some type of makeup, possibly to maintain her natural appearance or for specific social events. This practice, though not openly acknowledged, was a part of the royal and aristocratic world's customs.

In conclusion, the Victorian era's approach to makeup was a mix of societal constraints and subtle practices. While direct makeup use was frowned upon, there were always subtle ways in which women could enhance their appearance. The use of face powder, the development of Spanish papers, and the gradual acceptance of mascara all reflect the complexities of Victorian beauty standards and the cultural norms of the time.